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| The Geyserville Wine Scene |
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Written by Randy Fuller |
 Change
is coming in Geyserville, California. You may not see it yet, but you
can feel it. The town's excitement - and anxiety - about the very near
future is tangible. The tiny community of about 1,600 wine-loving souls
is on the verge of significant changes. Geyserville's burgeoning wine
industry has produced star-quality product for decades. Now, at a time
when wine has taken a much higher profile in our society, Geyserville is
on the precipice of cashing in.
The
citizens of Geyserville have a palpable attitude of hope - hope that
change is coming, and hope that the change will be good. They are a
small town - downtown is not much more than a wide spot in the road.
But the change these people are hoping for is a change that will widen
that road, and populate it with more and more businesses to serve the
tourism that the change will bring. It would be easy to read a little
desperation into all that hope, but that's not how it comes across.
These people know what they have - a collection of extremely good
wineries and vineyards which are responsible for wines of a very high
quality. But they know that is not enough. What they need now is for
people to notice. And people are noticing.
Coppola Tasting Room
The former Chateau Souverain was purchased by the Coppola wine empire,
and the change has already started there. Coppola is moving his public
profile in the wine biz from his Rutherford property to the Geyserville
facility, which makes a huge statement all on its own. His Oscars are
already there, and his expansion - more on that in a bit - is set for
completion by the summer of 2011. Nearby River Rock Casino has
expansion plans of its own. Although their hotel plans have been put on
the back burner due to the economy, they are at least still on the
stove. Just a small economic upturn could be the spark that relights
the fire. This sort of change will bring more people to the area, and a
higher profile to a wine region that richly deserves a little more
notice.
Geyserville has the good fortune to sit in one of the most amazing
grape-growing regions in the world. The Alexander Valley of
northeastern Sonoma County is blessed with great soil and several
diverse microclimates that rival the most prominent wine locales in
France and Italy. The wineries in Geyserville produce wines of a
consistently high quality, easily able to stand alongside the bottlings
of any other California appellation. The grape growers and winemakers
of Geyserville and the surrounding area are just as smart and just as
passionate as their brethern from other locales, and probably a lot more
down to earth. Aside from a few big names situated here, most of the
wine producers in Geyserville are small boutique wineries with limited
production. Big name or small, some pretty fantastic wines are being
produced around Geyserville.
As I wandered about the community I couldn't help but notice how
friendly and open everyone was. Each winery I visited seemed to be one
of the nicest places in the state in which to hang out. I could ask
anybody any question and get an answer that was thoughtful and
insightful. Everywhere I went, "laid-back" was the prevailing
attitude. There wasn't an Italian sportscar in sight the whole time I
was there. In fact, it would have been no surprise at all to see a
horse tied to a hitchin' post.
Wineries To Watch
Geyserville is home to several of the bigger names in winemaking. The
old Chateau Souverain now bears the impressive name of
Francis
Ford Coppola Presents Rosso & Bianco . It sounds like it should be
spoken with a fanfare accompanying it. Coppola is known as an idea
man. His ideas are being made into reality at Rosso & Bianco, and when
he's done, he will have changed the face of Geyserville dramatically.
His plans - which are frequently emended as the work progresses - call
for the winery to be made into a wine resort, with dining, swimming,
lounging and even activities and a play area for the kids. Coppola's
changes will attract more people to Geyserville and, with a hotel not
included in his plans, will push eager tourism dollars out into the
community.
Sculpture at Trione
One of the many boutique wineries that populate Geyserville,
Trione Vineyards
and Winery , has developed such a reputation with their wine alone
that they can place a tasting menu on the counter which features nothing
but award-winning wines. Only one of them was produced in a quantity
greater than 600 cases, and two of them were made in lots of less than
500 cases. The tropical Sauvignon Blanc, the apple pie Chardonnay, the
earthy Pinot Noir and the Cabernet Sauvignon which spent 24 months in
French oak barrels are big highlights on a roster that has only winners.
Jim Rickards
Jim Rickards of J
Rickards Winery would probably bristle at the mention of the word
"boutique" in connection with his operation, but that's the cattleman in
him talking. His interests turned from bovine to old vine when he
bought his vineyard in the 1970s and began selling grapes to other area
winemakers - Silver Oak, Geyser Peak and Dry Creek Vineyards to name a
few. His plants date back to 1908 and he has augmented the originals
with newly planted clones of old vines. He and his wife Eliza began
producing extremely small batches of handmade wines in the early '90s
for friends. The reception was enthusiastic enough that they finally
decided to start bottling on their own with the 2004 vintage. That move
made them a lot more friends.
Pedroncelli Zinfandel
The Pedroncelli
family runs the oldest winery in the Alexander Valley, and is one of a
handful of Italian-American families in the wine business there. The
Pedroncellis were around when the Dry Creek Valley floor was all prune
trees. They've done quite well with the grapevines, though.
TV legend
Raymond Burr didn't really want his vineyards to bear his name. But
when Burr passed away his longtime partner Robert Benevides decided it
was only right. Today, a very limited amount of top-notch wine is still
made with care. One look at the view from the tasting room door and
you'll know why Burr didn't mind that long drive up the hill.
Stryker Sonoma
's showcase tasting room literally puts the vineyard on display, with
ceiling-to-floor glass for walls.
*****
Now, Geyserville is presently about as big as a street corner - at least
the downtown business district is. But it's nice to know that you can
get plenty of tastes without wandering too far from your accommodations.
Locals
tasting room was one of my favorite spots. There you can sample from 75
different wines by 11 local producers like Dark Horse, Eric Ross, Atrea
and Hawley, just to name a few. They like to pour a "varietal
comparison flight," several tastes of one kind of grape from different
producers. It's a great way to experience the differences and
similarities of various wineries side-by-side. Of course, they also
pour what ever you'd like to try, so skip around the extensive two-page
tasting menu all you like. Everything you taste is for sale by the
bottle in the store. The shop is funded by a collective of the
wineries, and the staff knows what they're pouring, so any questions you
may have about what you're tasting will be answered.
Terroirs
Artisan Wines handles only four local wines, Godwin Family Wines,
Hughes Family Vineyards, Palmeri and Pena Ridge. I tasted both the
Godwin and the Hughes while I was there, and they both impressed me.
You should also try and get into
Route 128
Vineyards and Winery tasting room. Pete and Lorna Opatz opened a
tasting room in what was once the parts department of one of the first
Ford dealerships in the country. Their 60 combined years of experience
with grapes pays off well in their boutique wines. They produce less
than 500 cases per year, the standouts being a crisp and lovely Viognier,
a lively Zinfandel and an award-winning Syrah which mixes chocolate and
blueberry flavors in a delightful way. In the tiny room, you may find
art from local Twyla Gettert or even a pairing event with nephew and
culinary artist Rian Rinn. Route 128 is a definite "must taste" in
Geyserville.
*****
Some people consider "wine futures" to be a good investment. I think
the time is ripe for some enterprising entrepreneurs to buy futures in
Geyserville. Services are needed now, and the need will grow
exponentially when the Coppola project and the casino hotel are
reality. The town lacks a true grocery market and needs a bakery and a
coffee shop that open early. Although Diavalo and the Hoffman House are
hard to beat, a couple of extra dining choices would be nice and more
lodging will be needed, too. Oh, and that little downtown area could
use some sprucing up. Geyserville has great wine. Now it just needs to
get dressed up a bit before the company comes over. Keep an eye on the
Alexander Valley, and Geyserville in particular. You'll be seeing a lot
more of them in the future.
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